Have you ever thought about why puppies bite? There are a lot of reasons for it, but none of them have to do with demonic possession. When you understand why puppy chewing happens, it will help you to control your own puppy’s chewing. So, let’s look at some of the top reasons for it.

Aggression or Fear:

One of the big reasons that puppies chew things is because they are aggressive or fearful. That can come from abuse, improper socialization or being taken from their mothers too soon. It can also happen just because of inexperience, though. For a puppy, the world is a huge place. So, if he or she hasn’t seen certain things before, especially big things, they can be easily scared.

Separation Anxiety:

Separation anxiety chewing is also one of the worst sorts of puppy chewing. Puppies, again, are new to the world. So, they’re easily spooked. They also get very attached to their owners. So, if you leave your pup alone for too long, they’re likely to get upset or nervous and start chewing various objects in the house.

Exploration:

Another reason that puppies chew things is just to figure out what those things are and learn about them. After all, puppies don’t have hands like we do. So, they tend to feel their surroundings with their mouths.

Teething:

The fourth popular reason why puppies chew things is that they’re teething. Like babies, puppies cut new teeth. The teething process is very uncomfortable. So, puppies will chew to relieve the discomfort.

Treating Puppy Chewing:

There are a lot of strategies for treating puppy chewing. Some of them are more general in nature. For example, no matter why your puppy is chewing, one way to reduce the issue is to put something that the puppy doesn’t like the taste of, such as pepper, on the objects he’s been chewing. If you try that, however, make sure you use a substance that won’t damage your property and that won’t harm your puppy, if they do choose to chew anyway.

Another thing you can do, in general, to prevent puppy chewing is to simply make the rules clear to your puppy. That means associating verbal commands with stopping the chewing, such as “no chewing” or “stop chewing” or anything else you pick, as long as you’re consistent.

Another thing it means is distinguishing between non-chew items and puppy toys. For instance, it’s never a good idea to give your puppy old shoes or socks to chew on. Many people think they can recycle their old shoes and socks as dog toys. There are two big problems with that, though.

Problem one is that it’s not healthy. Your old shoes and socks are likely to be covered in dirt and other materials that your puppy shouldn’t be eating. Also, shoes can be chewed into small pieces that can be swallowed or cause a choking hazard.

Problem two is that it’s not clear. In other words, your puppy won’t be able to tell the difference between shoes meant as toys and your good shoes that you plan to wear to an important dinner or other occasion. So, the pup can’t be blamed for chewing your favorite shoes to pieces, if you’ve taught it that shoes are alright to chew.

Another solution to the chewing problem is the watch and replace technique. That means watching your puppy and giving them a correction word, like “No!”, when they chew the wrong thing. Then, you need to quickly replace the wrong thing with your puppy’s chew toy and, when the puppy chews it, give them lots of praise.

You can adapt that exercise by putting several “bad” objects on the floor and one or more “good” objects on the floor. Then, watch your puppy’s chewing behavior. Correct when they choose the bad objects to chew and praise when they chew the good objects. The puppy will find the game fun and interesting, but they’ll also learn something along the way.

Others solutions are designed to treat specific chewing problems. For example, if your puppy is fearful or aggressive, it might be a good idea to get down on their level. Look at their territory (your house and yard) from the puppy’s point of view. Then, try to either teach them that the scary objects won’t hurt them or put the scary objects someplace where the puppy can’t see them. Generally, it’s the biggest and noisiest objects that scare puppies the most, but it also depends on the individual puppy a bit.

Another specific puppy chewing fix is for teething puppies. Teething puppies often find certain temperatures or consistencies make them feel better. So, it’s important to give them toys that are specifically meant for teething. You may need to experiment a bit to see what material your puppy wants and what temperature. If you have doubts about it, talk to your puppy’s veterinarian.

Finally, remember that you can’t supervise your puppy twenty-four hours a day. So, it’s important to puppy proof any section of your house that you plan to leave the puppy unsupervised in. You can do that by putting the objects out of reach of the puppy. However, you can also put the puppy out of reach of the objects by crate training the puppy. Just remember, puppies shouldn’t stay in crates more than a few hours.

• Pitbull Training

• Pitbull Puppy Training

• Potty Training Puppies

• Housebreaking a Puppy

• Crate Training Puppies

• Puppies Biting

• Pitbull History

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Reason 1 – Separated Too Young:

In the litter, puppies learn a lot about biting.  They learn what to bite, how hard to bite and when not to bite.  Playing with their brothers and sisters and hearing them yelp if they bite too hard teaches puppies when enough is enough.  The problem is that, these days, people aren’t careful about when they take a puppy away from its litter.  A puppy should ideally be at least ten weeks old before it’s separated from its mother and litter.

Reason 2 – Teething:

All puppies, just like human babies, go through a period of teething.  As their teeth are coming in, they often feel better if they mouth or bite something.  Sometimes a cold or warm wet cloth to chew on or a specially designed toy for teething puppies can help.

Reason 3 – Natural Curiosity:

Puppies biting out of curiosity will generally bite or mouth almost anything.  It helps them learn about the object.  However, they’ll usually bite gently, in a tentative, curious way, not hard out of aggression.

Reason 4 – Aggression and Over Reaction to Play:

Another reason that puppies bite is because of fear or aggression.  That can happen if they haven’t been socialized properly.  It can also happen as a result of rough play, though.  Certain games that people play with their dogs encourage biting and pulling with the mouth.

There are, luckily, many ways to stop puppies biting at inappropriate times and for inappropriate reasons.  Many of them are simple techniques.  Let’s look at a few.

Socializing Your Puppy:

Your puppy needs to be well-socialized as early as possible.  That means exposing them to a variety of situations.  For example, the puppy should get used to seeing children, adults, other dogs and even cats or other pets.  The more your puppy is exposed to new things in a positive way, the less likely he or she is to be fearful or aggressive later on.

Word or Phrase Association:

There are certain things that your puppy should be allowed to bite, like his or her own toys.  So, it’s best to associate a word or phrase with things that the puppy is allowed to bite and a different word or phrase for things the puppy shouldn’t bite.  That will help the puppy to distinguish between the two and figure out what it is that you want.

Getting the Puppy Used to Hands:

Another thing you should do with a biting puppy is try to get them used to hands.  Particularly for large-breed dogs, it’s best to be able to get your hands near them in any situation while they’re young, so they’ll be easier to control when they get older.

For example, it’s best to cure food aggression at a young age.  One way to do that is to feed the puppy by hand.  If they start getting too aggressive, simply stand up and/or close your hand into a fist.  Then, once they’ve calmed down, start again.

If your puppy bites too much for that at first, you can also use a fake hand on a stick as a training tool. Use the fake hand to “grab” at the puppy’s bowl while they are eating and, gradually, switch to using your own hand.  Don’t allow children to do such an exercise, though.

Shifting the Puppy’s Focus:

The can and treat method usually works well.  It involves filling an empty can with something that will be loud when shaken, such as coins.  When the puppy bites, the idea is to shake the can and use a verbal command.  Then, when the puppy stops, give them a favorite toy or a treat and praise them.  The only problem with that technique is that involves carrying cans, toys and/or treats with you everywhere during the training process.

A similar method that you could try is clicker training.  Clickers are generally used as positive reinforcements when the puppy stops biting.  However, some people choose to get two clickers that make different noises and use one to indicate that you want the puppy to stop and the other to praise when he or she does.

What Not to Do:

There are several things you shouldn’t do, when you’re training a puppy not to bite.  One of those things is not to scream, say “Ouch!” or over react to the situation.  This is particularly important if the puppy is biting out of fear or aggression.  If the puppy learns that he can get you to leave him alone, hurt you, or in any way dominate you by biting, he’s going to consider it a successful tool.  So, it’s important to stay calm.

Another thing you should never do when you’re trying to stop your puppy from biting is to yell at or in any way hit or hurt the puppy.  Some people think they have to hurt a dog to show dominance over it. Your puppy will be much happier and much more respectful of you and willing to listen if you treat it with firmness, but kindness.  If you treat it poorly, it’s only likely to misbehave more.

Finally, don’t encourage rough play with a puppy that likes to bite.  There are plenty of games that you and your pup can play that don’t involve biting.  If you’re looking for some good play alternatives, a little Internet research or talking to your puppy’s veterinarian will give you many great ideas.

• Pitbull Training

• Pitbull Puppy Training

• Potty Training Puppies

• Housebreaking a Puppy

• Crate Training Puppies

• Puppy Chewing

• Pitbull History

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What Crate Training Is:

Crate training basically means getting a crate for your puppy. The idea is that you would put your puppy in his or her crate for short periods of time during the training process, such as when you need to leave them unsupervised to go to the store for a few minutes. Another use is to confine the puppy while you are asleep at night and can’t be constantly watching them.

Many people also use Crates as a step in the housebreaking process for their puppy. Puppies don’t like to urinate or defecate where they are sleeping, so, by crating them for certain amounts of time, people can train them to go outside at specific times.

Problematic Crate Training:

The controversy over crate training comes from the fact that many people look at crates as being a bit like jails. The truth is that they can be, if they’re not used properly. When they are used properly, though, they can be comforting to a dog, as well as great training tools.

What you need to understand about dogs is that they used to be wild. Humans eventually domesticated them, but they still have many of their old instincts, such as the desire to sleep in a designated area, like a den. A crate can be as close to a den as you can get in a house.

Proper Crating:

Proper crating means not locking your puppy in his or her crate for too long at any given point. In fact, you should start out only crating your pup for very short periods of time. You can gradually extend that time, but it should never be an all day thing.

Another part of proper crate training is the position of the crate. To make it as comfortable as possible for the pup, it should feel like a den. So, it needs to be in a corner or, at least, up against a wall. If not, a towel should at least be draped over a couple of the sides, to make it feel darker and more den-like.

Dens/crates shouldn’t be jails, though. So, when crate training puppies, it’s important to place the crate in an area where the puppies can still socialize and feel like they have the ability to be part of things. A good choice would be the kitchen or the living room, where families tend to congregate.

Another good thing to do is allow your puppy’s crate to stay open when your puppy is allowed to be out. That way, the puppy can go in and out as it pleases. That avoids the puppy feeling like, if he goes in the crate, he will always be locked up. So, he’ll be more likely to enjoy crate time, even when it is required, not optional.

Benefits of Proper Crate Training:

There are many benefits to crate training puppies, for both the owners and the puppies. One big one is, of course, how much it helps with potty training. The puppy learns to “hold it” for short amounts of time and also learns to go outside on a set schedule that way. The other big benefit is that small puppies who aren’t trained well yet tend to be destructive. Crating them when you plan to be out for short periods will keep your house from being destroyed. There are other benefits to crate training that are often overlooked, though.

For example, crate training can actually give your puppy peace of mind, especially if you have other dogs, cats or kids in your house. Having his own home base can make the puppy feel more at easy. He or she will always have a safe haven to go to if the other pets or the children start playing rough.

Crate training is also good for your dog’s health, indirectly. Puppies who are allowed to roam freely in the house when you aren’t home are likely to eat a lot of things that they shouldn’t. They could get in to almost anything. That could mean sickness, surgery or even death. So, it protects your puppy’s health, as well as saving you from considerable worry and expense.

Another benefit to crate training at home is that your dog is going to be much easier to travel with later on. Although it’s better not to transport them int heir home crate, you can get a travel crate and they’ll be used to the process. That means that getting them to the vet, taking them on vacation or having a friend or a kennel watch them while you’re away will be much simpler later on.

Quick Crate Notes:

1. Never crate a dog for more than 6 hours and young puppies shouldn’t be crated for more than two.

2. Don’t crate your puppy unless you’ve taken it to relieve itself right before.

3. Don’t crate a puppy in dangerous conditions, such as when it’s too hot, when the puppy is wearing a collar that could get caught on its cage or when there are any things that the puppy could choke on in the cage.

4. Always keep your puppy’s crate well stocked with water and toys. Crates can be very boring and uncomfortable, if the puppy has nothing to do.

Choosing a Crate:

Finally, crate training puppies is much easier if you know how to choose a crate. The crate should be just big enough for your puppy to lay down and sit up in. However, you don’t want to be constantly buying new crates as your puppy grows. So, if you have a breed of puppy that you know will get big, it’s best to get a larger crate that has dividers that you can put in and then remove, as your puppy grows. That way, you can make the most of the crate training and reduce the chance of accidents or injuries in the crate.

• Pitbull Training

• Pitbull Puppy Training

• Potty Training Puppies

• Housebreaking a Puppy

• Puppies Biting

• Puppy Chewing

• Pitbull History

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Punishment:

When it comes to housebreaking, what not to do is more important than what to do. One of the common mistakes that people make in house training a puppy is punishment. If you come home to find an accident on the floor, your instinct is to find the dog, shove his or her nose in it and start yelling. Not only is that cruel and useless, even if you catch the dog in the act, but it’s too late if you don’t see the puppy actually have the accident. Puppies have a short attention span and won’t understand what they’re being punished for, even if there’s only a few minutes between accident and punishment.

Your Puppy’s Training Tool:

A much better way to handle accidents in the home is through a system of positive reinforcement. That is, you should ignore the puppy when he or she has accidents, but reward them with something they enjoy when they go to the bathroom outdoors. Each puppy is different. Some puppies like food. Some like squeaky toys. Some like balls or stuffed animals. Once you find something your puppy likes, use that thing as their training tool/reward system.

Communication and Clarity:

One important thing, when it comes to housebreaking a puppy, is communication. The pup needs to learn what you want and a great way to do that is with verbal commands. Those commands need to be consistently used by everyone that has contact with your puppy, though.

For example, if you say “potty” and your spouse says “out” and your child says “yard” whenever you want the puppy to go outside and go potty in the yard, it will cause mass confusion for your family and your puppy. So, it’s very important that you always use the same word for the act of going outside, the same word for the act of relieving themselves outside and the same word to praise them for going outside. Some suggestions are “outside”, “potty” and “Good!”, but you can use any thee words, as long as you are consistent with them.

Consistent Routines:

One of he most important things about housebreaking a puppy is to set up consistent routines. The puppy needs to learn when feeding times are, for instance. There should be three feeding times each day for puppies under three months and two feedings each day after that. If you only leave the food down for about half an hour, they’ll learn when it’s time to eat.

How does that help with housebreaking? Well, puppies typically have to relieve themselves right after they get up in the morning and about half an hour to forty five minutes after they eat something. So, by controlling when they eat, you can control when they need to go outside.

On top of that, it’s also important to be consistent about how they go outside. For example, it helps to take them out the same door each time. Eventually, they should get so used to the routine that they come find you and bring you to the door or wait patiently at the door when they need to go. Also, of course, they should always go in the same area outside. That way, they’ll learn that that is the potty patch and not leave piles and puddles all over the house and yard.

The Paper Method:

Many people train their puppies to go outside by using newspapers in the house, to begin with. Then, they either move those papers slowly towards the door until they’re outside or place papers in an outdoor area, too. Although that’s not a bad idea, it can have some drawbacks.

One problem with the paper method is that it can just be inconvenient to have papers strewn in various places in your house. Also, though, bigger dogs make bigger messes. That can stink up the house, as well as mean even more frequent paper changes and even more chances of stepping in puddles or piles in the dark at night.

A lot of people also combine the paper method with baby gates to keep puppies in a certain area of the house. After all, owners can’t be with their pets 24 hours a day 7 days a week, so it’s sometimes necessary to confine them. That brings us to the next method.

The Crate Method:

Another way to housebreak your pet is to crate train them. Dogs usually like to be clean, so they don’t like to urinate or defecate where they sleep. If you give your puppy a crate with a bed in it and nothing else, except maybe a toy or treat to keep them busy, they have no room to have “accidents”.

The problem with the crate method is that many people lock their puppy in the crate for far too long. Even though being in a crate will teach the puppy to “hold it” a bit, making training them to go outside easier, they shouldn’t be confined for too long at once. It’s a training tool, not a jail.

Another crate training mistake is getting the wrong crate size. If you want to be successful with crate training, you need the crate to fit the puppy. Extra space will only give them the ability to go to the bathroom in an empty area of the crate. So, be careful to select a crate with adjustable panels, if you plan on housebreaking a puppy using a crate.

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There is also the fact that your puppy won’t have adequate bladder and bowel controls before he’s 16 weeks old. In other words, he’s not able to “hold it” for long periods so you should be extra vigilant all through that period.

But that doesn’t mean that you can’t start house training him the minute he put his paws into your home. It simply means that you have to expect your puppy to have a couple of accidents. But don’t worry, we will  guide you through everything you’ll need to deal with these little mishaps, from how to react to how to clean up.

One of the key to house training success is being able to predict when your dog will need to eliminate.

Your puppy will most likely need to relieve himself:

• First thing in the morning.
• After meals because the expansion of the stomach will exert pressure on the bladder and the colon.
• After drinking water.
• After waking up from a nap.
• During and/or when playing or exercising.
• After chewing on his chew toys.
• After every excitement(someone knocking at the door,guests arriving for example)
• Following a ride in the car (that’s why the first thing you should make sure is to  bring your puppy home to his Elimination Zone. (EZ) or his Toilet Stop (TS) so he can relieve himself)
• During the “active” periods (between six and ten in the morning and five and nine in the evening)
• After smelling another dog’s urine or seeing him urinate.
• When he leaves his crate.
• Last thing at night.

As you can tell, your puppy will need to go out quite often. But don’t despair, as he grows up he will need to be taken outside not as much as he use to.

Establish an elimination schedule:

Pitbulls thrive on a regular routine. By feeding and exercising your Pitbull at roughly the same time each day of the week,  he’ll as well relieve himself on the same time every day.
Decide a schedule to feed the puppy that’s convenient for you. Always feed at the same time. Until he’s 4 months of age, he needs four meals a day; from 4 to 7 months, three daily meals are appropriate. From then on, feed twice a day, which is healthier than feeding just once.

A sample feeding schedule follows:

• 7 weeks through 4 months — four times a day
• 4 months to 7 months — three times a day
• 7 months on — two times a day

Establish a regular toilet area:

Feed the appropriate amount — loose stools are a sign of overfeeding; straining or dry stools a sign of underfeeding. With ten minutes, pick up the dish and position it away. Don’t have food available at other periods. Keep the diet constant. Abrupt changes of food may possibly cause digestive upsets.

Start by selecting a toilet area and always take your Pitbull to that spot when you want him to eliminate. If possible, pick a place in a straight line from the house. Carry your puppy or put him on leash. Stay still and let him concentrate on what he’s doing. Be tolerant and allow him sniff around. When he’s finished, tell him what a clever puppy he is and play with him for a little.  Don’t take him straight back inside so that he doesn’t get the idea that he simply gets to go outside to make his business and learns to delay the process solely to stay outside.

Take your puppy to his toilet area when waking up, shortly after eating or drinking, and after he has played or chewed.

No matter how careful and vigilant you are, your puppy will produce an accident. Housetraining accidents could be simple mistakes, or they can be indicative of a natural problem. The secret to remember is that, as a universal  Rule, dogs like to be clean. When your Pit has had an accident in the house, don’t call him to you to punish him. It’s too late. If you do punish your dog under these circumstances, it won’t help your housetraining efforts, and you’ll make him wary of wanting to get nearer to you.

A general misconception is that the dog knows “what he did” because he looks “guilty.” definitely not so! He has that look because from earlier experience he knows that after you happen to come across a mess, you become furious at him. He has learned to associate a mess with your response. He hasn’t and can’t make the connection between having made the mess in the first place and your anger. Discipline after the fact is the quickest way to undermine the bond you’re trying to build with your dog.

Dog’s are smart, but they don’t think in terms of cause and effect. After you come home from work and scream at your dog for having an accident in the living room, you aren’t encouraging your dog to make use of his toilet area. All you’re doing is letting him know that occasionally you’re really kind and sometimes you’re really mean. Swatting your dog with a rolled-up newspaper is cruel and just makes him scared of you and rolled-up newspapers. Rubbing his nose in it is unhygienic and disgusting.

Dog’s could become housetrained in spite of such antics, but certainly not because of them. When you come upon an accident, all the time keep calm. Place your dog out of sight so he can’t watch you clean up. Use white vinegar or a stain remover. Don’t use any ammonia-based cleaners, because the ammonia doesn’t neutralize The odor and the puppy will be attracted to the same spot.

• Pitbull Training

• Pitbull Puppy Training

• Crate Training Puppies

• Puppies Biting

• Puppy Chewing

• Pitbull History

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